In Vermont, a new initiative is giving African diaspora food entrepreneurs the tools, resources, and visibility they need to thrive. The African Diaspora Foodways Institute of Vermont, launched as a one-year pilot, is a partnership between Clemmons Family Farm in Charlotte and the University of Vermont (UVM). Its goal: to support African diaspora-owned restaurants and catering businesses while enriching Vermont’s food culture and tourism.
The program is backed by $250,000 from the Leahy Institute for Rural Partnerships and $25,000 from the Agency of Agriculture’s Working Lands Enterprise Initiative. Four chefs are currently receiving professional development, marketing assistance, and $10,000 business grants:
- Maria Lara-Bregatta, Café Mamajuana (Colchester)
- Andrew “Chef Pops” Gonyon, Humble Revelry (Milton)
- Julian “Chef Jewelz” Perkins, Jamaican Jewelz (Bellows Falls)
- Alganesh Michael, A Taste of Abyssinia (South Burlington)
In exchange, the chefs lead community cooking classes at Clemmons Family Farm, sharing not only recipes but also the cultural heritage of their cuisines. At a recent class, Chef Jewelz spoke about sourcing coconut milk and plantains in her native Jamaica, noting how her persistence with local suppliers has made ingredients like plantains more widely available for Vermont’s Caribbean restaurants.
The initiative also seeks to expand local sourcing of African diaspora staples, such as teff, the grain used in Ethiopian injera. However, finding farmers able to grow and harvest such crops remains a challenge. “The staying power that we can give these businesses at this stage is very, very important,” said Catharine Noel, senior consultant for the institute, citing industry volatility, staffing shortages, and systemic inequities that disproportionately affect Black Vermonters.
For the chefs, the grants are making a tangible difference — funding bakery expansions, new equipment, advertising, and supplies. Chef Pops of Humble Revelry said the support helps him sustain “northern soul food” in Milton while building a loyal customer base open to trying new flavors.
Beyond funding, the partnership with UVM provides mentorship, technical guidance, and nutritional analysis of the chefs’ dishes. Judith Anglin, chair of UVM’s Department of Nutrition and Food Sciences, said the collaboration allows students to study how nutrition and health equity intersect for people of African descent. “We want our students to understand how to address health equity in practical, meaningful ways,” she explained.
For many participants, Clemmons Family Farm — a historic African American-owned farm operating for more than six decades — offers not just a venue but a sense of empowerment. “There is a feeling that you are all coming together in a powerful place,” said Michael of A Taste of Abyssinia.
Lara-Bregatta of Café Mamajuana echoed the sentiment, noting the farm’s legacy as an inspiration for resilience and longevity. “We are capable of holding on to our assets and our land,” she said. “My hope is to be at my diner for years to come. They’ve made that possible for me.”
